Once upon a time, Petri Alava donned crisp suits and leather shoes as he managed large corporations dealing in everything from magazines to gardening tools. Fast forward to the present, and you’ll find him at the helm of a Finnish start-up, where the dress code revolves around comfortable socks, and he proudly sports a round-neck T-shirt crafted from recycled clothing fibers, casually paired with baggy shorts.
His company, Infinited Fiber, has made substantial investments in a groundbreaking technology poised to revolutionize textiles that would otherwise be destined for incineration or landfills. This innovation, known as Infinna, has the potential to transform textile waste into a valuable new clothing fiber.
Infinna Fiber, a product of Infinited Fiber, is already being embraced by global brands like Patagonia, H&M, and Inditex (the parent company of Zara). According to Mr. Alava, it’s a premium-quality textile fiber that looks and feels natural, akin to cotton, and it’s also addressing a significant waste issue.
Across the globe, an estimated 92 million tonnes of textile waste is generated annually, a figure projected to surge to over 134 million tonnes by 2030 if the current trajectory of clothing production persists, according to the non-profit organization Global Fashion Agenda.
To the untrained eye, Infinited Fiber’s recycled fiber samples resemble lambswool: soft, fluffy, and cream-colored. Mr. Alava explains that this remarkable product undergoes a complex, multi-step process. It begins with the shredding of old textiles, removing synthetic materials and dyes, and culminates in a new fiber regenerated from extracted cellulose.
This finished fiber can seamlessly integrate into the traditional manufacturing processes used by High Street brands, replacing cotton and synthetic fibers to produce a wide range of garments, from shirts and dresses to denim jeans.
While the science behind creating this fiber has existed since the 1980s, rapid technological advancements in recent years have finally made large-scale production feasible. In parallel, High Street brands have become more focused on reevaluating their material usage, while millennial and Gen Z consumers are increasingly concerned about sustainable shopping habits.
Infinited Fiber’s technology has garnered substantial interest, leading the company to announce a €400 million investment to construct its first commercial-scale factory at a disused paper mill in Lapland. This facility aims to produce 30,000 tonnes of fiber annually, equivalent to the material needed for approximately 100 million T-shirts, once it reaches full capacity in 2025.
The potential impact of this innovation on the textile industry and the global waste problem is substantial. It represents a significant step toward a circular economy, a concept central to Finland’s vision of becoming Europe’s leader in sustainability. The country laid the groundwork for this ambition in 2016 when it became the first government globally to create a national roadmap for achieving a circular economy.
Several other Finnish start-ups are also working towards producing new textile fibers on a large scale while reducing emissions and chemical usage. Spinnova, for instance, transforms cellulose from raw wood pulp into ready-to-spin fibers at its textile factory in Jyväskylä, central Finland. The company has partnered with Suzano, one of the world’s leading pulp producers headquartered in Brazil. Spinnova’s yarn has been used by brands like Marimekko, North Face, Bergans, and Adidas.
While these innovations hold great promise, there are challenges to overcome. The fashion industry has been slower to embrace sustainability compared to other sectors, and the shift may be gradual. The issue of cost must also be addressed, as sustainable production methods often come with higher price tags, which consumers may or may not be willing to bear.
Furthermore, the true impact of these new methods on carbon emissions remains uncertain. Clear goals for reducing resource consumption and more sustainable practices are necessary to combat climate change effectively.
In conclusion, Finnish innovators like Infinite Fiber and Spinnova are pioneering new ways to repurpose textile waste and promote sustainability in the fashion industry. While challenges persist, their efforts represent a significant step toward a more circular and environmentally friendly approach to clothing production. However, a broader shift in consumer behavior and industry practices is necessary to truly tackle the issue of textile waste and reduce the fashion industry’s impact on the environment.
